Photos/Fotos – Guatemala

Photos/Fotos – Belize

Catalan below

There´s always a few surprises whilst planning our adventures. My first surprise came in the hours leading up to our trip, where I realised that instead of ‘Going Bush’, I would be ‘Going around the world’ in just 2 and a half weeks.

Alas, arrived from one indigenous land on the pacific to another, Guatemala. With 70% of the population made up of indigenous peoples, Mayans & Garifuna, and the poorest of the Central America nations, I expected comparisons to Bolivia. What I saw was a little different. Yes, of course the people are poor, but thanks to their fertile land, there is an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables (enormous at that), a plethora of fresh water (if only it will be kept clean for them), and a lush surrounding.

Guatemala has given me my first ‘real’ taste of what coffee should be- the ironic bitter/sweet taste that drives you to addiction.  It’s also given me an insight into architectural structures at Tikal that date back to when the Mayans moved there in  700 BC,  the sounds and sights of the jungle in Flores & Rio Dulce (while taking morning river swims), and the colours of the Garifuna people, dancing to the traditional beat in Livingston.

The ‘find’ in Guatemala was the Ipala volcano and lagoon thanks to our impromptu chat with Roberto, ‘the insect terminator’ on the bus to Chiquimula, close to the Honduras border. Roberto, a proud father & triathlon lover from Guatemala city, took no time in rescheduling his ‘termination’ meeting with a client the following day, instead taking us to the Volcano, 1500m above sea level. A hot, sweaty walk was worth what awaited us…a sub-tropical landscape (filled with plant species that I didn´t  recognise & blue crowned motmot birds that I did recognise!), surrounding a pristine lagoon that filled the extinct volcano with water 24m deep. The 10 ‘guardians’ of the nature reserve told us they have 20 000 visitors per year, mostly Guatemaltecas. From what we saw, there is no reason why this would not be the next small Lake Atilan.  It was that impressive.

More is still be to seen in Guatemala..when we return there in June.

And we cross the border to fragile Honduras. We arrive in the midst of a tense time between teachers and the government, each party accusing the other of not paying (teacher’s view) versus over paying (government view) teacher salaries. Demonstrations, threats by the government to suspend all teachers striking on school days by up to one year, and children walking the streets because school is closed for the day.  Given this and the political hostility of recent years, it’s not surprising that we find Hondureños a little unapproachable. We do travel to the Mayan Copan Ruins, and through to the former capitals of  Gracias and Comayagua. Our higlight surprised us in the form of the Flor de Copan Cigar factory, in Santa Rosa de Copan. I have never seen how cigars are made..and now realise the workmanship involved. 800 people make over 60 brands of cigars that are imported around the world. It´s an important industry in Honduras (along with Cuba, Dominican Republic and Nicaragua). The lack of machinery stunned us…they really are made by hand (about 350 are made per person per day), the ‘quality control’ was incredible- including how the tips looked and whether the boxes of cigars were all of the same colour shade, width and length,  the packaging process was elaborate yet primitive – cigars in fine wooden ‘caoba’ boxes are sent to be wrapped by women armed with irons ready to seal the plastic wrapping.

Our intended trip to the Mosquito Coast, on the west carribean coast was put on hold for now given recent kidnappings of tourists in the area. We leave Honduras a little disappointed but hoping we can return another time to visit the wild frontier of the Mosquito Coast.

In the middle of Guatemala and Honduras we change course for some days and head into Belize. The differences between imperialist influences (Britain v Spain) is apparent within moments of our arrival…the buses are painfully on time (three minutes early in fact), the cost of travel higher, and that everyone speaks English (relief!). The multicultural mix is also the most fascinating we’ve seen..getting on a bus in the south of Belize and we saw a montage of faces from West Africa (Garifuna), Maya, East India, China, Britain/US, with the Rastifarian as the nominated bus driver and disc jockey (the stereo often being of better quality than the bus itself ).

And then there’s the Memmonites. Originating from Austria or Germany (does anyone really know?), this powerful christian sect is alive and kicking in Tennessee (part of the bible belt in the US) and, so it seems, Belize. On the bus to Dangriga we meet 49 year old Memmonite Floyd, his wife, Millie-Ruth and their 12, yes 12 children. Floyd has returned to Belize for his 4th time on an independent mission from God himself (he fell out with the mission in the US, probably because they couldn’t agree on where God actually wanted him to go), secured himself and his family a lease to construct basic dwellings on a site for the sum of $1 for the whole year, and, with his eldest sons and their trusty bicycles, they are spreading the word of christianity and creation over atheism and evolution to any Beletian that will listen. I am overcome with ‘stories ‘ about the earth being only 6000 years old, and sandflies, and we hitch a ride to a drumming centre in the Garifuna village of Hopkins.

The smell of gentrification is powerful south of Hopkins – Americans and other expats bulldozing beach shacks of the Garifuna people to build their ‘McMansions’, complete with his and hers jetskis, motorbikes and boats. We move swiftly to the port town of Punta Gorda (P.G). We meet Dan & PJ,  Americans, unlike their brothers building the McMansions in Hopkins, who are working with an expat of 40 years to increase the influence the local indigenous people have over the way their community is run and how they profit from tourism directly (they often see little for their efforts – most profits going into the coffers of the Belize government). I was really impressed with Dan’s genuine desire to help raise awareness and build a number of programs for the community. We spend a night saving the world over rum with Dan and a day of kayaking further than we should have in the mangroves (hearing Willy say, ‘ my arms are going to die’ was both hilarious and scary given we were still in the middle of the ocean with an hour more to our trip).

And now we are in intriguing Nicaragua. Sandinista, poverty, US oppression and canyons…more about this in the next post.

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traducció al Català

Sempre hi ha sorpreses mentre planifiquem les nostres aventures, la meva primera sorpresa es va produir en les hores prèvies al nostre viatge, on em vaig adonar que en comptes d’anar de ‘going-bush’, havia d’anar per tot el món en tan sols dues setmanes i mitja.

Per desgràcia, vaig arribar d’una terra indígena del Pacífic a un altre, Guatemala. Amb el 70% de la població constituida per pobles indígenes, mayes i garífunas és la nació més pobres d’Amèrica Central. Per aquestes raons esperava veure similutuds amb Bolívia, aquí però les condicions són diferents gràcies a les seves terres fèrtils amb una abundància de fruites i hortalisses fresques (enormes per cert), una gran quantitat d’aigua dolça (si la poden mantenir neta) i uns exuberants voltants.

Guatemala m’ha donat la meva primera “real” mostra del que el cafè ha de ser, la ironia d’agre i dolç al gust que et porta a l’addicció. També m’ha donat una idea de les estructures arquitectòniques de Tikal que es remunten quan els mayes es va mudar allà al 700 aC, els sons i les vistes de la selva a Flores i Rio Dulce (tot nedant al riu d’hora al matí) i els colors dels garifunes, ballant al ritme tradicional a Livingston.

La “troballa” a Guatemala va ser el volcà Ipala, gràcies a la petita e  improvisada xerrada amb el Roberto, “l’exterminador d’insectes” a l’autobús de Chiquimula. Roberto, un pare orgullós i amant del triatló de la ciutat de Guatemala, va ser a temps de canviar l’”extermini formigal” d’un client al dia següent per compartir la pujada al volcà, de 1500m sobre el nivell del mar. Un passeig caloròs, la suada va valer la pena.. un paisatge subtropical (ple d’espècies de plantes que no vaig reconèixer i l’ocell blau Momot que coronada tot el que es reconeixa!) que envolta una llacuna com el  cristall dins un volcà extingit, d’uns 24 metres de profunditat. Els 10 ‘guardarecursos’ de la reserva natural ens van dir que tenen 20.000 visitants l’any, sobretot escoles guatemalteques. Pel que vam veure, no hi ha dubte que serà el proper petit llac Atitlan, impressionant..

Encara més per ser vist a Guatemala quan tornem al juny..

Creuem la frontera a Hondures on arribem enmig d’una època de tensió entre els mestres (població en general) i el govern.. Manifestacions i talls de carreteres, amenaces per part del govern de suspendre tots els mestres en vaga per un any.. mentres  els nens caminen pels carrers perquè l’escola està tancada fa tres setmanes. Tenint en compte això i l’hostilitat política dels darrers anys, no és d’estranyar que trobem els hondurenys una mica inaccessibles.. Veiem les ruines mayes de Copán, les antigues capitals Gràcias i Comayagua.

Una visita destacada que ens va sorprendre és la Flor de Copán, fàbrica de cigars a Santa Rosa de Copán. Mai havia vist com es feien i ara m’he donat compte de tota la mà d’obra involucrada,  800 persones que fan més de 60 marques de cigars importats a tot el món. És una indústria important a Hondures (juntament amb Cuba, República Dominicana i Nicaragua). La manca de maquinària ens va sorprendre, ja que en realitat són fets a mà (uns 350 per persona i dia), el “control de qualitat” és increïble, l’amplada i la longitud, segons la marca hi ha d’haver un varietat màxima de color, la forma del acabat en punta.. embalats amb caixes de fina fusta de caoba, “els bons”.. per segellar els ambaltges i la nostre ignorància, un equip de 6 dones amb planxes (de planxar) en mano donaven el toc definitiu al producte i la nostre visita..

El nostre viatge a la costa de Moskitia, queda aplaçat ja que no volem pagar els 1000 US$ i no ens atrebim a travessar-la sols per informacions confuses de segrestos en una zona de forts conflictes socials  i trafic de droga.. sortim d’Hondures una mica decebuts amb l’esperança de tornar a veure aquesta frontera encara salvatge..

Entre Guatemala i Hondures tot canviant la ruta entrem uns dies a Belize, les diferències entre les influències imperialistes (Gran Bretanya e Espanya) es poden veure des del moment de la nostra arribada … els autobusos surten  increiblement  a temps (tres minuts abans, de fet o és el nostre rellote ), és un país més car i tothom parla anglès (relief!). La barreja multicultural és també el més fascinant que he vist, pujant al primer autobús al sud de Belize vam veure un muntatge de les cares de l’Àfrica Occidental (garifuna), Maya, l’Índia (Oriental), Xina, Anglesos/Estats Units i un rastifari conductor i disc jockey (l’equip de música era amb diferència més car que el mateix autobús ).

A tot això s’hi ha de sumar elsl Memmonites, originaris d’Àustria o Alemanya (algú sap realment?),  secta cristiana amb gran força aTennessee (anomenat el cinturó de la bíblia als EUA) i a Belize.

A l’autobús a Dangriga ens trobem amb el Floyd, un  Memmonite de 49 anys i la seva esposa, Millie-Ruth que ens porten amb els seus 12 fills, sí 12 nens. Floyd ha tornat a Belize per la seva 4ª vegada, aquesta vegada però de forma independent de la Misió (ja que es va barallar amb la seva “comunitat” als EUA, probablement perquè no van posar-se d’acord en que Déu realment volia que fos), després de baixar tots plegat tot Mèxic amb bus, va llogar un terreny per 1 US$ l’any a canvi de construir unes barraques/cases precàries on viure.. ell i el  més gran dels seus fills amb les seves bicicletes propaguen la paraula de deu i la creació a qualsevol que vulgui escoltar.. Quant ens cansem de les “històries” i les sandflys (mosques de la sorra que mosseguen) sortim corrent tot fent autoestop fins al hostal i centre percusió del poble garífuna de Hopkins.

Al sud de Hopkins, nord-americans i altres expatriats han arrassant les barraques de platja per construir les seves McMansions i palaus, cotxes, vaixells i motos d’aigua.. tal com ens va dir, aquesta zona té molta “projecció”..

Ens movem amb rapidesa a la ciutat portuària de Punta Gorda (PG), on coneixem al Dan i PJ, dos nord-americans que a diferència dels altres treballen amb un expatriat que des de fa 40 anys lluita per donar als pobles indígenes locals la força per gestionar els programes i beneficis del turisme (la majoria dels guanys van a les arques del govern de Belize). Em va impressionar el desig de Dan per ajudar a crear consciència i construir els programes d’ajuda a la comunitat, amb quí vam passar la nit salvant el món amb una ampolla de ron!!! passem el dia en kaiac entre els manglars, poder més del que hauriem volgut!! (Willy dir, “els meus braços estan morts”), era alhora divertit i aterridor donat que encara estàvem a mar obert a una hora d’arribar.

Ara estem fascinats a Nicaragua, el sandinisme i  l’opressió EUA, el canyó de Somoto, ciutats colonials i molta calor.. més sobre això en el proper post.

Ingredients

For the ‘Masa’ or tortilla dough you will need:
(portions to your liking, I’ll have to experiment with this when i get home)
Plain flour
Baking powder
Bicarbonate of Soda
Salt
Sugar
Water

1. Combine and rest as one large ball (covered) for 20 minutes.
2. Separate into smaller balls (serving siize about the size of a tennis ball). Rest for 2 hours covered
3. Roll out in the circle shap with the palm of your hands. Use your fingers to stretch out to desired shape (about the size of a vinyl record or medium pizza base).
4. Cook on oiled hot surface (BBQ best or large flat based pan) for 3-4minutes turning at the halfway point.

For the filling:

Diced beef, cooked on BBQ with creamed garlic (below)
Creamed garlic (blend garlic, salt and parsley in a until creamy)
Mayonnaise
Tomato sauce/ketchup
Frijoles (refried beans)
Eschallots or spring onions, barbequed
Avocado
shredded lettuce

1. Make a wrap. spread mayo over all tortilla.
2. add beef then rest of ingredients on one half of the tortilla.
3. Add ketchup
4. wrap, folding in sides and then cut in half

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Encara somio amb aquestes “tortillas” plena de carn de vedella. Desprès d’un llarg dia al volcà i la llacuna de Ipala, al poble afamats i pel camí més llarg . L’home que just començava a encendre el foc de la seva graella, em va mostrar com fer les millors truites de farina que he menjat, ara jasé com fer-les

Ingredients
Per al “Massa”, necessitareu:
(Porcions al seu gust, haig d’experimentar amb això quan arribi a casa)

Farina normal
Llevat en pols
Bicarbonat de soda
Sal
Sucre
Aigua

1. Barreja els ingredients i deixa reposar en una bola (tapat) durant 20 minuts.
2. Separa en petites boles (de la mida d’una pilota de tennis) i que repossin2 hores coberts
3. Estirales amb el palmell de les mans i utilitza elsdits per estirar la forma desitjada (aproximadament la mida d’un disc de vinil o de la base de pizza mitjana).
4. Cuinar-la en una barbacoa o paella amb una mica d’oli, per al 3-4 minuts, donar-lis la volta a la meitat del temps

Per al farciment:

Trossos de carn de vedella, cuinat en barbacoa amb crema d’all.
Crema d’all (barreja de sal d’all i el julivert en una fins que quedi cremós)
Maionesa
Salsa de tomàquet / quetxup
Fesols (fesols refregits)
Calçots o cebes de primavera cuites a la barbacoa
Alvocat
Enciam picada

1. Posar maionesa sobre la base.
2. Afegir la carn i la resta dels ingredients en una meitat de la base.
3. Afegir la salsa de tomàquet
4. Doblegar a l’estil kebab i tallal per la meitat.

bon profit

General

Free Internet (Australia).

In general, all Public Libraries in Australia provide internet access to the community. Theoretically (and generally) this is free, but we have experienced a few public libraries charging a fee to access.

Also, McDonalds have free WiFi access in all of their restaurants around Australia (if you have a laptop/netbook with WiFi)

Books/Magazines

• Camps Australia Wide – the best guide with over 3500 places to camp for under $22 per night (or free). Buy online at http://www.campsaustraliawide.com . Approx AUD$60 (or try to buy at second hand bookshop – we bought ours for AUD$22!)
• Go Camping Magazine – 4 magazines per year. Has great articles on different tracks/parks/places across Australia for your planning. AUD$5.95 at a Newsagent.
• Lonely Planet (of course) – a recommendation for you all out there… Try using the LPs for each state of Australia (eg. Tasmania) you want to travel in and not the large Australia guide. Or buy specific chapters online in pdf format!  We have found these more useful and detailed. Also, you can buy these books second hand & sell very easily in the large cities like Sydney & Melbourne. Link to buy Lonely Planet Chapters
• Altair (Catalunya/Spain). Magazine that can be bought on just about any country, in Spanish, and available from the ´best travel book shop in the world´in Barcelona. www.altair.es/

Internet sites

• Surfing. I really like Surf-Forecast.com for the 6 day forecast. It´s covers nearly every surf break in the world so perfect for the surf traveller. In Australia, most people use Swellnet.com also.
• Kitesurfing Australia. Seabreeze.com.au has the top places to make all wind-sport activities eg. kitesurfing around Australia. Includes 7 day wind & weather forecast predictions.
• Rockclimbing/Escalada Australia.Not so easy to find comprehensive rock climbing sites for Australia. Here are some of the links we´ve gained something from.
  • TheCrag.com. The link will take you to the TheCrag.com section for Australia & a forum where you can meet fellow Aussie climbers who can (perhaps) give you more information.
  • Chockstone.org. For Rockclimbing in Victoria
  • Red Centre Rockclimbing. For Rockclimbing in Northern Territory.
  • Climb NZ. For rock climbing in New Zealand.
• Weather/temps Australia. www.bom.gov.au. You will need this more than you know
• National Parks/Els parcs nationals Australia. www.nationalparks.com.au  Information on all the National Parks in Australia. You will need to go to the right side of the parks page and select each specific State national park service (eg. Queensland) for more details. The offices & rangers are extremely helpful, they have excellent maps/routes, and sometimes, if you respect them and the park, they might let you stay a little longer without charge!
• Rail&Bus maps/mapes tren i autobús Australia. http://www.railmaps.com.au/stationfinder.php. How to get to any place in Australia via Train/Bus & timetables (if you need it).

AUSTRALIA

New South Wales

• Booderee National Park. Village Road, Jervis Bay NSW 2540 Australia telephone. +61 (0)2 4443 0977
  • Cave Beach (known by locals as simply ‘Caves’) & Bherwerre Beach. Both south facing, great surfing spots but Bherwerre typically gets a bigger swell. Camping at Caves for $23 per night (shoulder season), no vans/cars permitted on site, drinking water, woodfire barbeques (firewood supplied). Walking access to Bherweree beach via Cave Beach camping area (600m)
• Meroo National Park. 5 km south of Ulladulla; enter via unpaved roads off the Princes Highway. Termeil Beach access is 500m after the Termeil Bridge (where overtaking lane starts) .
  • Termeil Beach. Free Camping with beachfront! (try not to camp on the dunes though as they are trying to revegetate the area) Bring drinking water, firewood. No vans/cars. Wide open beach for Kitesurfing in the northeasterlies. Eat breakfast with the wallabies!
• Crescent Head National Surfing Reserve. Longboarding capital of Australia. Works best in a South/South-East wind. Kitesurfing is great here in a N/NE wind. Try back beaches for small coves and national park camping (fires permitted, about $6/night. Tranquil, relaxed hidden gem. 18Km from South Kempsey.
• Yamba & Angourie National Surfing Reserve. Another surfing mecca. Organic & chilled out.  Yamba claims to have the best king prawns in the world (we tried them and totally agree!). Spooky beach at Angourie looks great for a surf and go for a dip in the freshwater blue pools. Take the exit to Yamba near the Clarence River bridge (10km from Maclean)…
• Byron Bay (Cape Byron), Nimbin & Lennox Head. There’s something about these towns that is just so damn special. Maybe it’s the good coffee, watching the longboarders in Byron or the kitesurfing at that endless beach of Lennox or the liberal attitude of those Nimbin folk. This place had it all for us.
  

Victoria

• Mallacoota. For great fishing (flathead, trevally etc) and people watching in the caravan park
• Moonee Ponds racecourse. If you want to lose all your holiday budget money in one night!
• Mt Arapiles. Thousands of rock climbing routes on this huge monolith in the middle of North Western Victoria. And the most beautiful community of crazy climbers at the Pines campground.
• Torquay Point & Jan Juc Beaches. Torquay Point for the long boarders and Jan Juc if you are Willy and want BIG waves to smash around on your ‘esky lid’ (that is a bodyboard in Aussie dialect)
• Joanna Beach on the Great Ocean Road. Spectacular free camping on the ocean front.

Tasmania

• Corinna Wilderness. For the walks, kayaking on the Pieman River and being united with the incredible and ancient Tarkine Wilderness. www.corinna.com.au.
• South Bruny National Park. For the abalone, free camping, 4×4 on the beach and perfect isolation.
• Mt Wellington. The Organ Pipes are just fantastic for a day’s rock climbing
• Bluestone Bay, Freycinet Peninsula. Abalone diving in the morning, climbing Whitewater walls in the afternoon…perfect.
• Bay of Fires. Catching squid here and the million dollar camping views are just worth it!
• Dunnally Fisherman’s Co-op. The best fish & chips we had this year.

South Australia

• Siobahn & Ben in Seaford, Adelaide.  Best B&B in Adelaide Thanks guys
• Alpha Box & Dice vineyard, McLaren Vale http://www.alphaboxdice.com.au/
• Moonarie Campground, Flinders Ranges NP. 15kms south of Wilpena Pound. Bring everything except for firewood. Free but on private land. And cold in winter!
• Josephine’s Gallery, Coober Pedy. Ask for Terry. He’ll take you on a tour of the underground mine ($5, or free if you purchase some art or opals) . http://www.facebook.com/pages/JOSEPHINES-GALLERY-KANGAROO-ORPHANAGE/129284050419402
• Breakaways Reserve (Painted Desert). 33kms north of Coober Pedy. The dog fence and Mars like surrounds are also very interesting.

Northern Territory

• Mataranka. For the crystal clear thermal pools…hmmm
• Douglas Hot Springs. Natural beauty and the campgroud is great too. Toilets. Try to go to Butterfly Gorge if it is open.
• West Macdonnell Ranges. The colours and wildflowers are quite special.
• Jacinto & Minnie’s mango farm. Provided a tropical sanctuary for us after all that desert.
• Denise & Sinead. From saving us from 1) Bogat road and 2) being homeless & carless after the car accident.
• Darwin public swimming lagoon. Helped us with our ‘Bali Diet’ swimming up and down it most mornings.

Queensland

• Daintree rainforest. Wilderness everywhere you look.
• Reggaetown world music festival. Nicky Bomba and Darky Roots, we love you!
• Dunk Island. The national parks campground is just fantastic given the luxury status of the island (about $5.50p/p/night). BBQ, toilets. HOT showers! Fishing not bad either
• Hervey Bay whale watching. I was sceptical given the $100+ ticket, but maybe one of the best sightseeing tours I’ve been on in the world. (oh, and half a day is enough!)
• Cotton Tree. Kitesurfing is great here (when the tide is going out) and the fish & chip shop is great.
• Kangaroo Point rockclimbing, Brisbane. Best urban rock climbing (short routes) in the world.

INDONESIA, BALI & LOMBOK

• Nusa Lembongan. We did not want to leave this amazing island. Pacific Inn was the best value, best view hotel. The food & coffee are lovely too. Simple room 150,000 Rp. (sunloungers at the front).
• Legian for four reasons: Consistent and fun surf beach. Senen Beach Inn, for the cheapest room 200m from the surf & Mini Restaurant for the best banana pancakes & cheapest surfboard rental in Bali. And four, for the Suratha Inn restaurant – this place had the tastiest and biggest Nasi Campur in Bali(20,000 Rp for a plate).

New Zealand

Across NZ

• Pak’n'Save Supermarkets. To fill your campervan with lots and lots of cheap groceries.

South Island

• The Raikura track, Stewart Island. One of the great walks without the ‘great’ price. And the picking clams for dinner is fun too!
• Evansdale Cheese. The smoked brie…yummmm. You can buy this from Evansdale itself or Peter Timmbs Butcher and Cheese, cnr Colombo & Edgeware road Christchurch.
• Ben Lomond Walk, Queenstown. The views are spectacular and in Autumn so are the edible mushrooms that you can find along the mountain bike trails.
• Copland Track. The 17 km walk is a long hard day but the hot thermal pools at the Welcome Flat Hut are …well just magnificent!

North Island

• Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Lake Taupo. Mordorrrrrrr….

General Itinerary

2010

12/1- 26/3.   AUSTRALIA: New South Wales south coast, Victoria (east) & Tasmania.

27/3 – 15/5.  NEW ZEALAND: North & South Islands.

16/5 – 20/7.   AUSTRALIA: Victoria (West), South Australia, Western Australia, Northern Territory (West).

21/7 – 20/8.   INDONESIA

21/8 – 01/11.  AUSTRALIA: Northern Territory (south & east), Queensland, New South Wales (north)

Detailed Itinerary

12/1/- 1/2/2010. Sydney, New South Wales, Australia.

2 – 8/2/2010. Royal National Park- Culburra/Crookhaven Beach. Stayed Crookhaven Heads Caravan Park. Hot Showers, Electric BBQs, beach access, electricity. $32 per night (off season).

8 – 10/2/2010. Murrays Heads-Cave Beach, Boodaree National Park. Stayed at Cave Beach camping area. lightweight camping only. Cold Showers, Wood BBQs, beach access, no electricity. $23 per night (shoulder season).

10 – 11/2/2010.Termeil Beach, Meroo National Park. Stayed at Termeil Beach camping area. lightweight camping only. No Showers, bring wood & drinking water, beach access, no electricity. Free.

12 – 18/2/2010. Pebbly Beach, Murramarang National Park ($7 /car day park pass) – Mystery Bay, Eurobodalla National Park. Stayed at Mystery Bay primitive camping area.  Van access. Cold Showers, drinking water, beach access, no electricity. bring firewood. $14/night.

18/2/2010-22/2/2010. Tathra to Merimbula. Stayed at Yellow Pinch Dam camping area, 1km from Merimbula. Toilets, no showers. Free.

22/2/2010-24/2/2010  VICTORIA. Mallacoota, Croajinglong National Park. Stayed at Mallacoota Holiday campgrounds. Full facilities,ocean & lake views (and the best camp kitchen cabin we have ever seen). Approx $20/night for powered site.

24/2/2010 Salmon Rocks in Cape Conran National Park, Marlo. Stayed at Snowy River Campground between Marlo  & Orbost. Tables, no other facilities. By river. Free

25/2/2010. Orbost, 90 mile beach, Lakes Entrance. Stayed at Willow Park Campsite, Rosedale. Toilets, water, wood fireplaces. Free (but noise from highway).

26/2/2010-1/3/2010. Melbourne. Stayed at Arnie’s house (thanks mate) in Moonee Ponds. Visited St Kilda, City central, Queen Victoria Markets and went to the Moonee Valley racecourse premium meet night!

2/3/2010. Geelong, Barwon Heads, Torquay, Bells Beach. Slept in the car park at Jan Juc beach (near the surf club). Great BBQ/table facilities at Fisherman’s beach to cook and watch the waves.

3/3/2010 – 6/3/2010 Ballarat to Mount Arapiles. Stayed at Pines Campground, 8 kms west of Natimuk, with direct access to Mount Arapiles. Toilets, fuel stoves only between Nov-Apr. No showers and bring drinking water. Honesty payment system, about $2 per night.

7-8/3/2010 Melbourne (thanks again Arnie) & evening on the Spirit of Tasmania boat to Devonport.

9/3/2010 TASMANIA. Devonport, Ulverstone, Burnie, Boat Harbour & Sisters beach, Marrawah. Stayed in St Oswalds Anglican church in Marrawah to refuge against the howling rain and winds (but would have stayed at free camping at Green Point)!

10-11/3/2010 Marrawah to Corinna via Western Explorer. Stayed at the campgrounds of Corinna Wilderness area in the heart of the Tarkine forest. $15 per night, $2 hot shower, firewood/water provided. The walks and kayak activities in this area are fantastic. Beautiful – highly recommended.

12-14/3/2010 Corinna – Cradle Mountain (Overland Track for Will)- (Launceston-Mt Elephant-Bicheno-Freycinet-Hobart-Cygnet-Pelverata Falls-Huonville-Sorell-Port Arthur-Hobart for Bridge). Overland Track was $160 for 3 day itinery. Take all cooking equipment. Water provided. In Bicheno I stayed at the Seaview Holiday Village $130 per night. I used Hobart as a base for the other travels in those days.

15/3/2010 Hobart-Snug Beach. Slept on Snug Beach (free). A beautiful sunrise and BBQ / water facilities on the beach.

16-18/3/2010 Snug Beach – Bruny Island. Stayed at Cloudy Bay Camp in the South Bruny National Park (free – but you require a Tasmania National Parks Pass – See preparations for more details). 4×4 access only (across beach) to campsite. Bring everything! Toilet facilities. Beautiful, amazing, fantastic place. Ferry to Bruny Island is about $55 return (car & trailer). Highly recommended.

19/3/2010 Bruny Island – Kingston-Mt Wellington (Hobart). Stayed at ‘The Springs’, a stone hut (free). Water, Fireplace, BBQ). Bring Firewood.

20/3/2010 Mt Wellington (Hobart)-Salamanca Markets-Pressing Matters Vineyard-Winemaking Tasmania-Election Tally room (at the Hobart Casino). Stayed at Paul Smart’s house (thanks Smarty!) in West Hobart.

21/3/2010 Hobart-Tasman Peninsula. Stayed at Fortescue Bay Campgrounds. $13 per night. $7 firewood. Toilets. Bring water.

22-23/3/2010 Freycinet Peninsula. Stayed at Bluestone Bay camping. Free. Toilet but nothing else! Head towards the lighthouse and take the dirt road for 2 kms until you reach the campground. The dirt road is a 4×4 access only.

24-25/3/2010 Bicheno-South Sister, St Mary’s-Bay of Fires. Stayed Cosy Corner 2 Campgrounds in the Bay of Fires. Free. Toilets and fireplace.

26/3/2010 Devonport – Melbourne. Slept on the Spirit of Tasmania boat.

27/3/2010 NEW ZEALAND. Melbourne-Christchurch. Stayed at Jo & Johan’s (& Ida’s)house (thanks guys!) in Lyttelton, Christchurch.

28-31/3/2010 Christchurch

1-3/4/2010 Christchurch – Moeraki

3-5/4/2010 Otago Central Rail Trail – Dunedin

6-8/4/2010 Dunedin-Caitlin Coast-Stewart Island. Ferry from Bluff to Stewart Island $75 per person.

8/4/2010 Stewart Island. Raikura Track. Stayed at Port William Hut. $15 per person/night.

9/4/2010 Stewart Island. Raikura Track. Stayed at North Arm Hut. $15 per person/night.

10-11/4/2010 Stewart Island. Raikura Track. Stayed at Stewart Island Backpackers campground. $15 per person per night.

12-13/4/2010 Bluff-Invercargill-Te Anau

14-16/4/2010 Te Anau-Milford Sound-Queenstown (Mole Creek Track & Ben Lomond Walk)-Frankston

17/4/2010 Wanaka-Haast

18-19/4/2010 Copland Track. Slept at Welcome Flat Hut by the Hot Thermal Pools. $5 per person/night.

20/4/2010 Fox Glacier – Hokitika

21/4/2010 Hokitika-Arthur’s Pass-Castle Hill. Slept at Cragieburn Forest Park.

22/4/2010 Castle Hill-Christchurch-Gore Bay. Slept on beach – beautiful spot for a run in the morning also!

23/4/2010 Kaikoura

24-25/4/2010 Kaikoura-Nelson-Takaka

26/4/2010 Takaka-Wainui Bay-Walk on Abel Tasman to Totaranui

27/4/2010 Takaka

28-30/4/2010 Kayak in the Abel Tasman National Park. Day 1 slept at Mosquito Bay. Day 2 slept at Anchorage Bay. Both campsites. Toilets and Water provided.

1/5/2010 Nelson – Picton

2/5/2010 Wellington. by Inter Islander ferry

3-4/5/2010 Napier – Taupo

5/5/2010 Taupo-Tongariro Alpine Crossing

6/5/2010 Rotorua

7/5/2010 Mount Monagui

8-13/5/2010 Coromandel Peninsula-Auckland

14/5/2010 Piha

15-16/5/2010 Auckland

16-25/5/2010 AUSTRALIA. Melbourne.

26-29/5/2010 Melbourne – Jan Juc, Torquay. Stayed infront of the Jan Juc surf club (26/5) and then Torquay Caravan Park $25/night

30/5 Torquay – Johanna Beach. Stayed at Johanna beach campground (toilets, on beach, free)

31/5 – 6/6 Portland. Stayed at Sawpit campground outside of Portland (toilets, fireplace, free).

7-11/6 Portland – Adelaide. Stayed at Ben & Siobhan House in Seaford.

12/6 Adelaide – Tarlee

13-16/6 Tarlee to Moonarie, Flinders Ranges National Park. Stayed at Moonarie campground (on private property). Free (but bring everything)

16/6 Flinders Ranges – Port Augusta – Pimba

17/6 Pimba – Coober Pedy/ Stayed at Pootnarie – 35kms north of Coober Pedy (free)

18/6 Coober Pedy – Mt Ebenezer. stayed at roadhouse $5pp + $5 for power

19-24/6 Uluru. Stayed at Sandy Rest Area, 28kms before Yulara. (free)

24/6 Salt creek rest area free

25/6 Kings Canyon. Stayed at desert oaks rest area. free

26/6 Henbury Craters, Alice Springs. Stayed at Heavitree Caravan Park $12pp unpowered site.

27-29/6 West MacDonnell Ranges. stayed at Neil Hargrave lookout. free

30/6 – 3/7 Devils Marbles. stayed at devils marbles campground (and one night camping in Ali Curung)

4-6/7 Devils Marbles – Mataranka. stayed at 12 mile yard in Elsey NP.

6/7 Katherine Gorge. Stayed at Katherine Gorge Caravan Park $30 unpowered site.

7-9/7 Katherine – Douglas Hot Springs. Stayed at Douglas hot springs campground. free

9-10/7 Litchfield NP. STayed at Blueys Rockhole campground.

11-27/7 Stayed at Mini & Jacinto’s Mango Farm.

27-29/7 Darwin. Stayed at Denise & Sinead’s house.

29/7 – 28/8 INDONESIA

29/7 Darwin – Denpasar, Bali. Stayed at Beneyasa II, Legian (100,000Rp/night)

30/7 Legian. Stayed at Senen Beach Inn* (70,000Rp/night)

31/7-4/8 Gili Trawangan. Stayed at Haji’s Place (find him around the main square selling rooms for other hotel). (80,000 Rp/night) Haji has built 3 rooms on his land which is behind the main strip, towards the top of the island. It took him 17 years to save the money. He & his family are simple, and incredibly hospitable people.

4-5/8  Bangsal, Bali – Sengiggi, Lombok. Stayed Siti Hawa Backpackers (125,000Rp/night incl breakfast).

6/8 Kuta Lombok. Stayed at Hotel Akre (on the beach). (150,000Rp/night incl breakfast)

7/8 Gerupuk. Stayed at Sugesty Homestay* (80,000Rp/night incl breakfast). Best place we stayed on the trip. Salt Shower

8/8 Selong Balanak – Bangko Bangko. Stayed at Pandanan Hotel (100,000 Rp/night incl breakfast). Salt shower.

9/8 Lembar (Lombok) – Padangbai (Bali). Stayed at Mahayani Homestay (100,000Rp/night incl breakfast).

10/8 Padangbai – Nusa Penida. Stayed at Nusa Penida Guesthouse (Samalaplan, 90,000Rp/night incl breakfast).

11-14/8 Nusa Lembongan (10,000Rp public boat from Penida). Stayed 11/8 at Minnami Dusa (175,000Rp/night, salt shower). 12-14/8 Stayed at Pacific Inn*. 150,000Rp/night. Fresh water shower.

14-17/8. (public boat to) Sanur – Legian. Stayed Senen Beach Inn. 60,000Rp/night.

17-21/8 Ubud. Stayed at Matahari Cottages ($50usd/night).

21-23/8 Lovina. Stayed at Hotel Puri Manggala. 150,000Rp incl breakfast.

22/8 Munduk

23-25/8 Pantaigondol-Permutan via Air Panas Banjar). Stayed at Kubuku Homestay 150,000Rp/night incl breakfast.

25/8 Balian Beach. Stayed at Alam Balian Homestay. 110,000Rp/night.

26/8 Legian. Stayed at Suratha Inn. JL Melasti Gang Intan no.9 Legian. Wiwin and Made were lovely to us and have a fantastic restaurant downstairs with the best Nasi Campur in Bali.

27/8 Denpasar, Bali – Darwin, Australia.

28/8-1/11 AUSTRALIA

28-30/8. Darwin. Stayed with Denise and Sinead.

30/8  R.I.P  El Kangur, our Subaru

31/8-2/9 Darwin and back at Denise and Sinead’s house.

2-8/9 Townsville (Queensland). Stayed at Neil’s apartment. Jetskied to Magnetic Island.

8-9/9 Dunk Island. Stayed at Dunk Island Campground ($5/night).

9/9 Cairns. Stayed at Palm Cove Council caravan park.

10/9 Daintree Rainforest – Cape Tribulation. Stayed near Daintree Village.

11/9 Cairns. Reggaetown World Music Festival. Camped nearby.

12-14/9 Great Barrier Reef. Liveaboard with Pro Dive.

Day 1 Dives. Petaj Bommie, Miln Reef (20m & 12m), Swimming Pools, Miln Reef (10m)- day and night dive.

Day 2 Dives. Whale Bommie, Miln Reef (20m), Tennis Courts, Flynn Reef, Gordon’s Mooring, Flynn Reef (7m) – day & night dives.

Day 3 Dives. Little Tracy’s Bommie, Flynn Reef (16m), Big Tracy’s Bommie, Flynn Reef, Big Tracy’s Bommie (shallow pools) – amazing hard coral all < 6m deep.

14/9 Cairns. Stayed at Nomads ($53 per night)

16-19/9 Townsville

20-27/9 Airlie Beach. Stayed at Airlie Beach backpackers

27-29/9 Hervey Bay

30/9-1/10 Sunshine Coast. Stayed with Mum & Dad in Nambour.

1-22/10 Cotton Tree. Stayed at apartment.

22/10 Brisbane. Stayed at Stephen’s place.

23-29/10 Lennox Head. Visited Byron Bay, Nimbin, Gold Coast. Stayed at Peta’s house.

30/10 Crescent Head. Slept in the car park but there is a great municipal caravan park there.

31/10 Myall Lakes. Part of the Great lakes national park. Free camping at Myall lakes

1/11 Sydney & return to Barcelona for Willy.

English below

Creuant la frontera a la Mesilla entro a Mèxic, on  amb l’excusa del narcotràfic/emigració irregular als EEUU es multipliquen els controls (arrogants) polici/militars als que viatgem direcció nord!.. el trafi il·legal d’armes (sud) que tant preocupa a Guatemala (250 dolars per una pistola i 450 per un AK47) es irrellebant ja que afaboreix al comerç de Mèxic amb els EEUU que tant agrada als actuals dirigents..

La presió militar impossada pel president Correa (que va aconseguir el poder després del misteriòs assesinat del principal aspirant a la presidencia!) als cartels del sud del Mèxic afaborint el domini del trafic de coca/persones als del nord a canvi de donacions/retribucions, ha desencadenat la guerra a la frontera dels EEUU quan aquest s’han vist prou forts i superiors al control estatal..

La militarització de l’estat Mexicà als darrers anys ha tingut un gran impacte als territoris més pobres/indigenes dels alts de Chiapas (zona més rica en recursos i més pobre del país) on des de l’any 1994  va començar la famosa guerra/reivindicacions Zapatistas de l’EZLN (veure: Zapatistas, crònica de una revolución) i que encara perdura.. assentada ara amb la creacio dels Territoris Autonoms Zapatistes o Caracoles (http://www.abyayala.info/ruta/caracol/caracol.html)

Parlant amb la gent no en trec l’aigua clara, menys  sense un gran coneixament de territori ni temps.. segons opinions de gent que treballa al Institut de Desenvolupament Agrari (governamental!) em sorprent alguns comentaris sobre conflictes intercomunitàris per diferencies de religió.. no em deixarà mai de sorprendre que en els territoris on va nèixer la teoria de l’alliberament des de la mateixa esglesia cristiana, es trobi (50 anys més tard?) aquesta gran influencia de sectes evangelistes/cristianes tot i mantenint els “mateixos nivells” de desigualtats.. evidentment promogudes pels amics americants de que parlava al post anterior..

Paro a Palenque al veure l’antiga ciutat Maya i sorto de Mèxic per la carretera fronterera travessant la selva del Peten/Lacadona.. corpres per la vida, l’esperit de resistència de la seva gent i la degradació de la mateixa..

Des del meu modest punt de vista, tot i les inversions que l’estat esta fent (obligat per la presio internacional que el moviment Zapatista ha creat) no deixen de ser dubtoses, subversives i sobretot propagandistiques.. un exemple que em trobo a Corozal (1 miler de persones?), on 50 militars i “otro tanto” de “personal” governamental es trobaven al poble on s’ha muntat un essenari, cadires, micros i tota la parafernalia (portada 5 hores amb camions) per celebrar unes ajudes economiques tot coincidint amb la visita del governador  (després de 25 anys, per complir una promesa electoral i pocs mesos de el carrec!).. cap dels nou vinguts (5 que vaig parlar jo, 2 amb radio motorola pel control de l’acte..) em va saber explicar com es rebien, qui les rebia ni de quants diners es tractaven.. la resposta era que eren per la concervació de la selva.. i es que resulta que: la gente aqui no le tiene respeto..!!!

Ja a Guatemala em trobo amb la Bridge, ens passegem pel Tikal, la gran ciutat Maya.. enclavada al mig de la “selva”, ens dona un dia de caminada relaxant mentre descobrim piràmides, temples, places  i ruines varies.. una prespectiva d’aquesta extingida civilització entre crits de monos “aulladores” i turistes sorollosos

un canvi de ruta ens porta a Belize, pero aquesta història encara esta per escriure..

una abrazada a tod@s

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Crossing the border to enter Mexico, where the drug trafficking and  illegal migration to the U.S. are tightening controls by the police / military to travel to the north! .. Traf fic of  illegal arms (to the south) is also of concern in Guatemala ($ 250 for a pistol and an AK47 450) as is the trade deals with Mexico that make it much like the current U.S. leaders ..

Imposed military pressure on President Correa (who came to power after the mysterious assasination of the main candidate for the presidency! In southern Mexico cartels control their domain trafficking cocaine / people in the North in exchange for donations / payments, which has unleashed war on the border when the U.S. have been strong enough to state control.
The militarization of the Mexican state in recent years has had a major impact on the poorest regions / senior indigenous Chiapas (an area rich in resources and poorest in the country) where in 1994 started the famous war  claims Zapatistas of the EZLN (see: Zapatistas, Chronicle of a Revolution) and that still lingers .. Now settled with the creation of autonomous Zapatista Caracoles or (http://www.abyayala.info/ruta/caracol/caracol.html);)

Talking with people does not gain much clarity, no less a greater connection with the territory .. according to opinions of people who worked on the Agrarian Development Institute (governamental!). some comments surprised me on the differences for inter-religious conflicts .. I never cease to be surprised in the areas where the theory of liberation was born from the same Christian church, it is (50 years later?) the great influence of evangelical sects.
Stop in Palenque to see the ancient Mayan city and then out of Mexico by road crossing the Peten jungle / Lacadona .. fantastic for life, the spirit of resistance of its people and the degradation of the same ..

From my humble point of view, despite the investments that the state is doing (forced by international pressure that the Zapatista movement has created) no longer doubtful, especially subversive PROPAGANDA .. an example that I am in Corozal (1 thousand people?), where 50 military and “other people” from “staff” were in the village where the government has mounted a stage, chairs, microphones and all the paraphernalia (5 hours with trucks) to hold a financial aid concert coinciding with the visit of the governor (after 25 years to fulfill an election promise and a few months in office!) .. none of the newcomers was able to explain how they received, who received how much money or tried .. the answer was that they were the guardians of the jungle .. and it turns out: not even here do the people have RESPECT ..!!!

I am now in Guatemala with Bridge, we walk to Tikal, the great Maya city .. wedged in the middle of the “jungle”, gives a relaxing day while walking we discovered pyramids, temples, ruins and several places .. perspective of an extinct civilization from the cries of monkeys “howling” and noisy tourists:)

a change of route leads to Belize, but this story is yet to write ..

hugs to all…

Fotos/Photos

English below

Després d’un passeig aeri de 30 hores aterro a Guatemala, enrera queden masses hores d’avió, llançadores i passejos per aeroports.. allà queden les meves empremptes digitals de tots el dits i una foto de carnet, EEUU esta fent des del 2004 un estudi/fitxatge de totes les persones suspitoses de terrorisme/delinquència i clar, aqui el menda te aire criminal.. IGNORANTS..

almenys la motxilla arriba a destí, tot i una sorpresa considerant el que deia..

10 hores abans de començar el viatge fem un canvi de plans i la Bridge vola est fins Australia.. mentre jo oest cap aquí..

només sortir de l’aeroport ja estic com a casa, gent cridant noms de ciutats, taxi..

organitzo un colectivo amb 4 “anglesos” i ens plantem a Antigua, 1a ciutat construida pel espanyols al continent i la 3a en importància de tota l’Amèrica colonia espanyola.. carrers d’adoquins i cases baixes per aguantar els terratrèmols que periodicament les fan ballar.. un munt d’esglesies en ruines (quan una colapsava per algun sisme en construien una altre)  i escoles de Castellà, carrers en quadrilla i cases amb patis interiors a l’estil andalus.. lloc fàcil i turístic on sento el 1r concert de Jazz..

Vaig a Panajachel com a porta d’entrada al Lago Atitlan, un llac dins del con d’un volca.. passejo i em moc en lancha pels diferents pobles del voltant.. veient la posta de sol, conec al Diego i la Cristina (?) i mes tard a tots els treballadors de l’hospital de Solalà, que “visito” el dia següent, sorprenent-me de la joventut i motivació del seu personal, aixís com la qualitat del lloc, material i atenció.. sempre dins la realitat/precarietat/ ilegalitat si es tractes dins les lleis UE..

St. Marcos la Laguna, tranquil i lloc espiritual per ioguis

St. Pedro la Laguna, 18.000 habitants, turisitic i religios, on entro en el mon religios cristia/evangelista, em trobo 300 joves entre 14 i 18 anys un disabte a les 20 hores a missa!! a part dels catòlics al poble hi ha 18 esglesies evangelistes de 5 diferents tipus (Bautistes, Pentecostals, Wuescellana, Esceilana i Centroamericana) on cada dimarts i dijous al vespre hi ha “culte” pels adults i “clases” als nens, diumenge però, com que es el dia del Sr. hi ha clase per tothom al mati i culte a la tarda..

Això sense contar un lloc que vaig trobar on a mes de “culte”  feien jocs de Cau, segons 2 persones no era un esglèsia sinó una secta, que dius: i la resta?

St. Jaun la Laguna es també al llac, un poble tranquil on es pot fer una caminda a la creu per veure vistes, són xules tot i que jo no puc dir per haver-ho fet d’ilegal..

vaig fins a Quetzaltenango (Xela) fent “rallye” amb un Quicken (bus com als del Simpson) per la carretera interamericana nova i plena de talusos veticals amençants de caure en la  proxima pluja.. amençant com els precipisis mentres el capullo al volant es tomba sobre al seient a les curves com si conduis uns moto tot frenant a les curves quan no toca..

Xela, 2a ciutat del país es agradable al visitant, colorida i alegre com tot el país i la seva gent.. visito les Fuentes Georginas, unes termes arrassades per un allau de pedres i fang l’Octubre passat per una tempesta tropical Àgata (precedent del Pacific), res d’estrenyar veient el lloc on son i els efectes/destrucció visibles en carreteres i cases a tot el país (que jo he vist).. a la tarda un altre concert de Jazz teatral d’uns italians al Teatro Municipal, de la mida del Kursal sense res a envejar al Liceu.. (i des de la platea del alcalde, d’amagat evidentment )

Parada inesperada a Hueheutenango de cami a la frontera amb Mèxic on escric aquestes linees, que com veieu son llargues

salut i temps per tod@s

PD: em deixo l’MP4 al cybercafe, algu el va trobar i li va donar al jefe, l’endemà al mati aquest me’l torna a mi.. en pocs països això passaria.. ahí queda

per veure fotos

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After a 30-hour aerial tour I land in Guatemala, leaving behind hours on the plane, my fingerprint of all fingers and a passport photograph. The U.S. has been doing a study since 2004, signing in everyone suspicious of terrorism & crime…and us…they must have everyone by now…ignormases.

Atleast the bag reaches destination.
10 hours before the journey begins a change of plans and Bridge flies east to Australia .. while I head west here ..

As soon as I leave the airport I’m at home, people shouting names of cities, taxi ..

Organize a shuttle with 4 “English” and we plant in Antigua, 1st city built by the Spanish and the 3rd in importance throughout the Spanish colonial america .. streets and low houses to withstand the earthquakes that periodically make them dance .. a lot of churches in ruins and schools in Castellano, streets and houses with courtyards in the Andalusian style .. A touristic and easy place where I feel the 1st concert of Jazz ..

Panajachel,gateway to Lake Atitlan, a lake within the crater of a volcano .. I walk and I move in different villages around the boat .. watching the sunset, get to know Diego and Cristina and later to all employees of the hospital Solala, who “visited” the next day, surprising me of the youth and motivation of its staff as well the quality of the site, material and attention .. always within the reality / insecurity concerns of EU laws ..

St. Marcos La Laguna, peaceful and spiritual place for yogis:)

St. Pedro La Laguna, 18,000 inhabitants, and religious turisitica, enters the world where Christian religious / evangelist, I am among 300 young people between 14 and 18 a Saturday Mass at 8pm! In the village there are 18 different types of  catholics and 5 evangelical churches (Baptist, Pentecostal, Wuescellana, Esceilana and Central) where each Tuesday and Thursday ¨cult¨evenings for adults.
St. Jaun is also the Laguna Lake, a quiet town where you can walk on the cross to see lovely views  although I can not say how it is legal ..

I go to Quetzaltenango (Xela) on the new inter-American road full of vertical ascents that when it rains slide away in the next ..
Xela, 2nd city of the country that is friendly to visitors, colorful and lively as the whole country and its people .. Visit Georginas fountains , part destroyed by an avalanche of stones and mud last October fron the  tropical storm. Actually the effects of the storm are visible – destruction of roads and houses .. another afternoon and a Jazz concert staged at the Teatro Municipal by some Italians, the size of Kursal but nothing to envy the Liceu .. (viewed from the position of the Mayor, in secret of course:))

Hueheutenango an unexpected stop on the way to the border with Mexico where I write these lines, which are long as you see:)

Salutations to all.

PS: I leave my memory stick at the Cybercafe, someone found it and gave it to the boss, the next morning me it was returned to me .. only in a few countries this would happen .. this is one.

ENGLISH BELOW

Any nou nous territoris que diuen..

Aquesta vegada ens plantegem un dels viatges més clàssics i poder interesants que hem començat..

És un territori relativament petit, que forma un conglomerat de paisos amb ‘estats poc estructurats, diferents i diversos..  banyat per un mar calent, el carib i l’oceà per excelència, el Pacífic..

Territori de clima tropical i predominantment allargat (la zona més estrat entre mars de Panamà té uns 18kms!!) té una serralada que l’atravessa de nord-sud, que va des de les terres altres de Chiapas al sud de Mèxic fins la zona del volcà Arenal a Costa Rica.. amb una alçada màxima de 4220 m al volcà Tajamuco a uns només a poc més de 100 kms de la costa pacífica..

Degut a aquesta complicada orografia, l’activitat volcànica present en la regió i les tempestes tropicals que any rera any toquen el continent fan difícils e irregulats les vies de comunicació i condicions de vida dels seus habitants..

Territori poblat per antigues civilitzacions paral·leles i més avançades a les europees, si més no en aquell temps.. ha patit un espoli/genocidi per espanyols durant 300 anys i un saqueix/genocidi per anglesos i EEUU (lease com el Palomino) els darrers 200 d’anys a través del suport d’aqust a les seva clase oligarquiques/terratinents dominants..

Tot aquest sociopolicocultural ambiental ha fet de la zona el laboratori per excelència de les teories revolucionaries, amb la creació de gerrilles armades com a defensa a aquests poders oscurs vergonyosament clars..  que ha creat veritables llegendes social..

Ens disposem a passar 15 setmanes veient racons, disfrutant de la qualitat humana de la seva gent per probar de descobrir/entendre/apendre del seu passat i present, tot mirant d’endevinar un futur menys esperençador del que voldriem.. en aquest futur negre per la mare Terra.

aquí queda

bons dies a tod@s

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New Year, new territories or so they say ..

This time we considered a classic trip  and even more interesting start ..

It is a relatively small territory, which is a conglomerate of countries .. bathed by a warm sea, the ocean and the Caribbean and par excellence, the Pacific ..

A predominantly elongated tropical territory (the area between the seas of Panama is about 18km!). There is a mountain range that crosses from north to south, ranging from the other lands of the Chiapas in southern Mexico to the Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica .. heights towering to the majestic Tajamuco Volcano (4220 m) and some only just over 100 kms from the Pacific coast ..

Due to this complicated terrain, volcanic activity in this region and tropical storms every year make the continent variable, a bit like the roads and living conditions of its inhabitants ..

This is a Territory inhabited by ancient civilizations there were more advanced parallel than Europe, at least at that time .. but has also suffered loss / Spanish genocide for 300 years and a further genocide by the British and U.S for the last 200 years,  supported by the oligarchic / dominant landowners ..

All this has made a socio-politico-cultural and environmental laboratory for excellence in the area of revolutionary theory, with the creation of armed guerillas as a defense to these dark powers embarrassingly clear .. and which has created true social legends ..

We have to spend 15 weeks watching spots, enjoying the humanity, humility and kindness of its peoples and to try to discover / understand / learn from its past and present, looking at futures less hopeful than we would like .. the future of a somewhat blackened earth mother.

here it is:)

happy days to all.

Peta is the dessert queen of Lennox Head. So when the dessert queen of Bondi (that’s me ) arrived it was a meeting of sweet brains, trawling through chocolate cookbooks and looking at cheesecake recipes. Peta made this for us…and the weight scales came out this morning…thanks Peta – awesome recipe.

Ingredients
250g plain chocolate biscuits
150g butter, melted
2 tablespoons brown sugar
20g butter, extra
300ml thickened cream
50g milk chocolate, chopped finely
3 teaspoons gelatine
¼ cup water (60ml)
2 x 250g packets cream cheese, softened
½ cup (110g) caster sugar
3 x 60g Mars bar or Snickers, chopped finely

Recipe
1. Blend or process biscuits until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs, add butter, process until just combined. Using one hand press biscuit mixtures evenly over base and side of 20cm springform tin, cover; refrigerate about 30 minutes or until firm.
2. Meanwhile, combine brown sugar, extra butter and 2 tablespoons of the cream in small saucepan; stir over low heat, until sugar dissolves, to make butterscotch sauce.
3. Combine chocolate and another 2 tablespoons of the cream in another small saucepan’ stir over low heat until chocolate melts.
4. Sprinkle gelatine over the water in small heatproof jug; stand jug in small saucepan of simmering water. Stir until gelatine dissolves; cool 5 minutes.
5. Beat cheese and caster sugar in medium bowl with electric mixer until smooth. Beat remaining cream in small bowl with electric mixer until soft peaks form. Stir slightly warm gelatine mixture into cheese mixture with mars bars or snickers; fold in cream.
6. Pour half of the cheese mixture into prepared tin; drizzle half of the butterscotch and chocolate sauces over cheese mixture. Pull skewer backwards and forwards through mixture several times to create marbled effect. Repeat process with remaining cheese mixture and sauces. Cover cheesecake; refrigerate about 3 hours or until set.
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Peta és la reina de postres de Lennox Head. Així que quan la reina postres de Bondi (que sóc jo;)) va arribar va ser una reunió dels cervells del dolç, despres de tafanejar algun llibre de cuina de xocolata per trobar la recepta pastís de formatge perfecte, la Peta fet això:
(recepta impressionant)
Ingredients
250 g de galetes de xocolata negra
150 g de mantega fosa
2 cullerades de sucre moreno
20 g de mantega
300 ml de crema espessa
50 g de xocolata amb llet, picat finament
3 culleradetes de gelatina
¼ de tassa d’aigua (60 ml)
2 x paquets de 250 g de formatge crema, estovat
½ tassa (110g) de sucre en pols
3 x 60 g xocolatina Mars o Snickers, picat finament

Recepta
1. Barreja les galetes o procés fins que la barreja s’assembla a molles de pa fi, afegir la mantega fins que tot just està combinat. Amb una mà barreges de galetes de premsa de manera uniforme sobre la base i laterals de 20 cm d’estany desmuntable, coberta i refrigerar per 30 minuts o fins que estigui ferm.
2. Mentrestant, combini el sucre moreno, mantega i 2 cullerades de la crema en una cassola petita, i barrejar a foc lent, fins que es dissolgui el sucre, per fer salsa de caramel.
3. Combinar la xocolata i altres 2 cullerades de la crema en un altre cassó petit i remenar a foc lent fins que la xocolata es fongui.
4. Espolvorejar la gelatina sobre l’aigua d-una olla, fer-ho bullir a foc lent. Remena fins que la gelatina es dissolgui i deixi refredar 5 minuts.
5. Batre el formatge i el sucre en pols en un bol mitjà amb una batedora elèctrica fins que quedi suau. Batre la crema restant en un bol petit amb una batedora elèctrica fins que es formin pics suaus. Remou lleugerament la combinació de gelatina a la barreja de formatge amb barres de xocolata Mars o Snickers; vegades en la crema.
6. Aboqui la meitat de la barreja de formatge en el motlle preparat, la meitat de la plugim de les salses de caramel i xocolata sobre la barreja de formatge. Mou enrere i endavant a través de la barreja diverses vegades per crear un efecte de marbre. Repetiu el procés amb la resta de la barreja de formatge i les salses. Cobriu el pastís de formatge i refrigerar unes 3 hores o fins que qualli.

And like the humpback whales, we make our migration south towards our final destination of Sydney. We stop on the beautiful Sunshine Coast, just south of Fraser Island. The Sunshine Coast is 60 kms of coastline (and bronzed surfers) that is hugged by a ‘hinterland’ of mountains, waterfalls and volcanic rock. Suddenly there are no crocodiles to worry about, just when the wind will be strong enough to get the kite out ☺
We take a couple of days out at Mum & Dad’s house in Nambour before settling into a friends apartment in the beach village of Cotton tree. The town is the surviving legacy of ‘old school’ sunshine coast, the one that I grew up in – small and friendly, where you can buy a juice, do your washing then take fish & chips home for dinner. At the point where the mouth of the Maroochy River meets the surf beach, this is also the key kitesurfing spot on the coast.
Kitesurfing, repairing the kites, surfing, planning the next adventure, visiting Rainbow Beach, Noosa heads, & the mountain villages of Maleny and Glasshouse absorb 3 weeks and allow us plenty of time to repair our bodies after the car accident.
South to my university town of Brisbane and to Kangaroo Point, a sandstone cliff on the Brisbane River overlooking the city skyline. Two hours there confirms it is the best and most accessible sport climbing in Australia. Brisbane has accelerated from a glorified country town in my university years to a thriving metropolis. Some of my best memories lie here and we agree it is Australia’s most liveable city.
My old friend and fellow political junkie Stephen greets us here. Stephen & his wife, Shayne are active and well known in Queensland politics & the Australian Labour Party. We talk for hours about his travels including meetings with Al Gore, Mikhail Gorbechov, and lunch at the Colombian presidential palace. We leave them and make our way to free lovin’ northern New South Wales (in our rented ‘Hippie Camper’ nonetheless .
If there was one phrase that reminds Byron Bay, Nimbin and Bangalow, towns that make up ‘Northern New South Wales’ of it’s origins, it would be the 1973 Aquarius Festival. Hippies, socialists and artists and wannabees descended into the small town of Nimbin for music, spiritual healing, smoking and, well, never left. The town now thrives with tourism based on it’s liberal stance on marijuana, and Rastafarians making candles. Images of Colombia spring to mind as we drink the local coffee looking over the banana trees and lush mountains (and listening to the locals announcing ‘taxi coming’…code for when the boys in blue are strolling the streets).
We stay with Peta, our friend we travelled with in Brazil, and her sister Lexi south in Lennox Heads. We use it as a base to surf in Byron bay and the Gold Coast.
And now we think about our final days together Australia…and plans for 2011. But for now, we’ll just continue to enjoy the ‘Aquarian life’ ….

To see photos

Going Bush 2010.
“Wherever my travels take me, paradise is where I am”

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I al igual que les balenes geperudes, fem la nostra migració al sud, cap al nostre destí final de Sydney. Ens aturem a la bonica Costa de la sortida del Sol, que comença just al sud de l’illa de Fraser amb un total de 60 km de costa amb una serralada volcànica plena de cascades.. Aquí ja no hi ha cocodrils i el vent suficient per fer volar el kite (l’estel) ☺
Visita familiar a Nambour per installar-nos Maroochydore en un apartament d’uns amics davant de la platja on des de la finestre veiem els estels volant o la gent amb les taules de surf..
Kitesurf, reparar els estels, surf, planificar la propera aventura, visitar Rainbow Beach, Noosa Heads, i els pobles de muntanya de Maleny ens porta 3 setmanes i ens permet un munt de temps per reparar els nostres còssos després de l’accident de cotxe.
Sud a la meva ciutat universitària de Brisbane i de Kangaroo Point, uns penya-segats de pedra al costat del riu amb vistes als gratacels e illuminat de nit.. el lloc mes accessible per escalada a Austràlia i segurament el millor sector d’escalada urbana el món
Brisbane ha passat de ciutat rural durant en els meus anys universitaris a una florent metròpolis. Alguns dels meus millors records es troben aquí i estem d’acord que és la ciutat més habitable d’Austràlia.
El meu vell amic i polític addicte Stephen ens reven. Stephen i la seva dona, Shayne són molt conegudes i actiu en la política de Queensland i el Partit Laborista d’Austràlia. Parlem durant hores sobre els seus viatges, incloses les reunions amb Al Gore, Mikhaïl Gorbechov, i el dinar al palau presidencial colombià..
Lloguem una furgo ‘ Hippie Camper ‘ per moure tots els trastos i acabar el viatge tornant a l’estat que vam començar, Nova Gales de Sud.
Anem a Byron Bay, Nimbin i Bangalow, pobles que deuen el seus orígens al Festival Aquari del 1973 on hippies, socialistes, artistes i aspirants es van reunir a Nimbin per la música, el fumar i la curació espiritual.. i bé, mai se’n va anar. La ciutat ara prospera amb el turisme basat en la seva postura liberal sobre la marihuana, rastafaris i la fabricació d’espelmes. Imatges de Colòmbia vénen a la ment tot prenent el cafè i mirant per sobre dels arbres de plàtan i exuberants muntanyes (i escoltar als veïns anunciant “taxi ve ‘… codi per quan els nois de blau es passeja pels carrers).
Ens quedem a casa de la Peta, companya de carretera al Brasil i la seva germana al sud del cap Lennox, que ens serveix com a base per navegar a la badia de Byron i la Gold Coast.
Passem els últims dies junts a Austràlia planejant el 2011. ara per ara, haurem de seguir gaudint de la “vida d’Aquari” ….

per veure fotos
Going Bush 2010.
“A qualsevol lloc que els meus viatges em portin, el paradís és on estic”